Kyle and I were surfing landslides right down the road from the house, the wave breaks in front of a reef headland/parking lot area and A frames fast onto a really shallow sand bar. The lefts are make or break for sure, I took a few lefts and got closed pretty hard. I Came up from one minus a middle fin. Thinking about all this square tail movement I said fuck it the tails getting chopped. The tail on the pod is pretty pulled in which helps its turns but I figured with just a block back there it get down the line quick and launch. I'd have to sacrifice the middle fin and leash plug but I had waves at home in mind so I was over it. We didn't have any sort of saw down here so Pev I picked up what was more along the lines of a nail filer than a hack saw at the flea market. When we started cutting the band would flop side to side making things tough to be precise. At one point we even tried the machete. Finally I took the band off the hack and used my hand to cut which did the trick. I filled in the ripped out plug holes with lots of qcel and resin and threw suncure on the open tail (glassing at its finest.) Standing at 5'1 the machete was ready for waves. So far It's been out in knee to waist slop and up to shoulder open faced nuggets. It was not holding back in either. The twins hold the bottom turn surprisingly well for not much board. After the bottom turn its takes off. Getting up the face fast has a little lag since their's no middle fin but beating the flat sections and keeping speed through turns on the soft shoulders is where it really shines. Now I just need to figure out how to get a leash on there because swimming into fields of urchin's after it is no bueno. -no tail, more fun, cheers-
Thursday, March 29, 2012
Sunday, March 18, 2012
24
I turned 24 last month. I don't feel like I'm 24. I went out with Brittany and got some mofungo. Mofungo is a Puerto Rican dish with chicken, peppers and red sauce inside a breaded plantain bowl. It was simple, a lot like life down here.
Friday, March 2, 2012
karmas payment
Photos (top- Jennifer Thibodeau. bottom-Tom Hay)
At home when its good theres nothing better. Wake up, its cold Whats it going to be? 495 north or east on 128? Either way your on the karma payment plan.
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