Tuesday, May 29, 2012
Check out Jared's Poetry, Pics and Band "High Five" here at http://papalpigeon.wordpress.com/ and when you see him shralping at the wall or the river mouth say "weypah" and throw him a shaka. Just don't drop in on him and definitely not his brother.
Saturday, April 7, 2012
What is it that we take from new experiences? Culture, friendship, opportunity, growth, another point of view? All of these things beautiful in their own aspects, come to mind. As I return from a winter in PR it's hard to imagine it's already over. What I've gained is what I haven't seen yet.
Wednesday, April 4, 2012
Thursday, March 29, 2012
Kyle and I were surfing landslides right down the road from the house, the wave breaks in front of a reef headland/parking lot area and A frames fast onto a really shallow sand bar. The lefts are make or break for sure, I took a few lefts and got closed pretty hard. I Came up from one minus a middle fin. Thinking about all this square tail movement I said fuck it the tails getting chopped. The tail on the pod is pretty pulled in which helps its turns but I figured with just a block back there it get down the line quick and launch. I'd have to sacrifice the middle fin and leash plug but I had waves at home in mind so I was over it. We didn't have any sort of saw down here so Pev I picked up what was more along the lines of a nail filer than a hack saw at the flea market. When we started cutting the band would flop side to side making things tough to be precise. At one point we even tried the machete. Finally I took the band off the hack and used my hand to cut which did the trick. I filled in the ripped out plug holes with lots of qcel and resin and threw suncure on the open tail (glassing at its finest.) Standing at 5'1 the machete was ready for waves. So far It's been out in knee to waist slop and up to shoulder open faced nuggets. It was not holding back in either. The twins hold the bottom turn surprisingly well for not much board. After the bottom turn its takes off. Getting up the face fast has a little lag since their's no middle fin but beating the flat sections and keeping speed through turns on the soft shoulders is where it really shines. Now I just need to figure out how to get a leash on there because swimming into fields of urchin's after it is no bueno. -no tail, more fun, cheers-